Glorious Champagne! - clarita@morgefile.com
My only regret in life is that I did not drink more champagne," said John Maynard Keynes -- and why should you share his regret? This year, savor affordable French chic.
What puts the sparkle in a holiday celebration?
The classic answer is “Champagne!” But how do you know what you want, and how to get it, without spending a fortune in the process – and possibly becoming so giddy that you no longer know what you’re tasting?
Assuming that French champagne -- which remains the great celebration beverage, despite an aggresssive hoard of imitators -- is your bubbly of choice, read on for a quick guide to this noble classic.
- France is home to the only true champagne producers in the world. The monk Dom Perignon discovered this unstable “mad wine” by accident in the late 17th century, and French lawmakers have limited its production ever since to a very small geographical region, about 90 miles from Paris.
- Local winemakers are strict about keeping the “C-word” out of general use. For example, when the French designer Yves Saint Laurent decided to name a new perfume “Champagne” a few years back, he promptly found himself in court – on the wrong side of a lawsuit. He argued that he had a right to the name, because his perfume was sparkling, frivolous and expensive – and cleverly stoppered with an oversized cork. He lost. Today the perfume is called Yvresse, a play on the French word for intoxication.
- French champagne producers are careful to keep their standards high, because they understand that disappointing wines will hurt their prestige. Champagne is an expensive tipple, and anyone who had ever “celebrated” with a dud glass is unlikely to come back for more.
- Each bottle contains some 49 million bubbles, which explains champagne’s tendency to “explode” when its cork is popped. To keep the bubbles where you want them – in the bottle and, ultimately, in your glass – hold the bottle at a 45 degree angle, and do not remove the cage holding the cork in place. Holding cork and bottle firmly, turn the bottle slowly until you hear the slow hiss of pressure being released. If you take your time, you won’t waste a single, precious drop – but have a glass at the ready, just in case!
- If you're in the market for good, French bubbly that won’t break the bank, some excellent choices include non-vintage Brut champagnes from Charles Heidsieck, Gosset, Delamotte and Pol Roger, all of which should hover in the $25-30 range.
- In the mood to splurge? Consider Dom Perignon. A bottle of the non-vintage Brut (or dry) champagne, will set you back around $170. Higher fliers will want to consider the rarer and very fashionable, Dom Perignon Rosé, which gets its frivolous pink color from brief contact with the skins of pinot grapes while the wine is being fermented. It currently costs about $400 for a respectable vintage bottle.
- Less pricey, and probably the finest “bargain luxury” rosé currently available is Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé. Elegant and delicately fruited, it is guaranteed to seduce even the most determined Scrooge.
- Once you've chosen your champagne, chill it to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit and drink it from a flute, to conserve the bubbles and concentrate the delicate bouquet. One sip of truly good champagne, and you'll be a convert for life!
Copyright Anne Neville. Contact the author to obtain permission for republication.
Anne Neville - Writer, editor and Kiplinger Fellow in Public Affairs Journalism, Anne Neville lived and worked in Paris and India for a decade, writing ...
